Know about your plants!

READY FOR A TRANSPLANT: While most trees and shrubs can be planted any time throughout the year, Sago Palms prefer a spring transplanting.

“In August, the large masses of berries, which, when in flower, had attracted many wild bees, gradually assumed their bright velvety crimson hue, and by their weight again bent down and broke their tender limbs.” - Henry David Thoreau.

“When summer opens, I see how fast it matures, and fear it will be short; but after the heats of July and August, I am reconciled, like one who has had his swing, to the cool of autumn.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

“When summer gathers up her robes of glory, and like a dream of beauty glides away.” - Sarah Helen Whitman.

“That smell of freshly cut grass makes me think of Friday night football in high school. The smell of popcorn and cigar smoke reminds me of the stadium. The cutting of the grass reminds me of the August practice.” - Garth Brooks.

August is that time of the year when summer lingers and the days shorten. To many people, its called the hottest month of the year. This “back to school” month tends to transition us from the freedom of summer to a more defined schedule going into the fall. Planting and transplanting landscape plants should begin to take priority over the next couple of months.

A question often heard on this topic is “When is the best time to plant or transplant in the landscape?” Most trees and shrubs can be planted most any time throughout the year (excepting extreme temperatures when the ground is freezing or the heat intolerable), but the unconditional best time is in the fall. Reason being the fall season offers cool air and warm soil temperatures which are the impeccable combination for establishing necessary roots in their new environment. However, some plants like the Sago Palm prefer a spring transplanting.

Most plants grown in containers can be planted throughout the year. Plants that are balled and burlapped perform best when planted between October and March. If you are attempting to transplant an existing tree or large shrub, practice root pruning a few months before actual moving the plant. This exercise will encourage new roots to develop inside the root prune since approximately 95% of the root system is left behind during the standard digging process. Once again, the cooler air and warm soil of the fall is kind to plants and trees, especially those that have just lost a major portion of their roots during digging, in contrast to the heat and stress of the summer which can be very devastating to the plant.

Possibly the greatest advantage in fall transplanting is that most deciduous plants and trees are beginning to enter a period of dormancy. Therefore, the energy typically required to sustain existing foliage and vegetative growth can be directed towards root development and storing nutrients and resources during these cool months. Henceforth, by the time spring arrives and the demand for the new growth of leaves and vegetative components goes into full throttle, the root system should be well established so the plant can properly address the spring requirements and survive the upcoming demands of the following summer.

When transplanting, preliminary work at the new site can definitely make the difference between those trees and shrubs that will simply survive and those that will definitely thrive. Such activities will include digging the planting hole two to three times wider than the current root ball will be, but no deeper than the plant was growing in its previous environment.

Also, when planting a container-grown plant, don't assume that the soil level in the container indicates the proper depth for planting. Often growers add more soil media to the container, which actually places too much soil above the root level. At planting time, remove the soil at the top of the container to locate the actual root surface which will be the proper level for planting in the ground.

It is much better to plant a tree or shrub slightly (not significantly) higher and allow the area to settle and to drain, rather than to sit in a bowl and collect excess water (thus wet feet which is deadly and terminal). Newly disturbed soils have a tendency to settle and plants growing below grade can easily surrender to root rot or other diseases.

A most critical step at this stage of the process is sufficient watering. Such watering provides needed moisture, but also helps eliminate any air pockets around the roots that could otherwise result in dead roots. Build a small moat around the plant to help hold water for infiltration into the soil and prevent run-off and water loss.

As the project is completed, add a mulch with three to four inches of organic matter (pine straw or ground bark). In addition to aesthetics, mulch functions in helping the soil retain its moisture and moderate its temperature. In addition to cooler temperatures, winter can bring drier conditions, thus water as needed since the roots are still growing and soil moisture is essential for survival.

Everyone wants instant greenery, but the larger the tree, the more critical and expensive the process. When at the nursery, buy the most healthy and shapely plants. Look for plants that have healthy foliage and no roots exiting the container’s bottom drain holes (which is a strong indication that they are root-bound or pot-bound). Always remember that smaller is smarter. If you have a choice (as per design and/or inventory), buy smaller plants. These are less expensive, easier to handle, and should catch up to the larger ones during the season.

Always read and save the plant tags or labels for future reference. Find out their size and their cultural requirements, such as sun or shade, fertilization, water, etc. (full sun means at least six to eight hours of sun each day). Be sure they are for your climatic zone (south Georgia is between zones 8 and 9 on the national list). Choose those plants adapted to your local microclimate in your lawn or landscape. Know about your plants!

Finally, check the spacing requirement on the label and follow it closely. Allocate enough space to allow the plants to reach their full sizes and shapes. It’s very tempting to cram them closely together when they are small, but a crowded plant never grows well due to competition between plants and space restrictions.

“I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith. Now there is in store for me the crown of righteousness, which the Lord, the righteous Judge, will award to me on that day...” 2 Timothy 4:7-8. “Even when I am old and gray, do not forsake me, O God, till I declare Your power to the next generation, Your might to all who are to come.” Psalm 71:18. “To all who received [the Word, that is Jesus Christ], to those who believe in his name, he gave the right to become children of God — children born not of natural descent, nor of human decision or a husband's will, but born of God.” John 1:12-13. “You gave abundant showers, O God; You refreshed Your weary inheritance” Psalm 68:9.

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